2 dead cylinders?

[cgswss10]

I am not fond of using a welding tip cleaner for clearing jets. It's not hard to make a #38 jet a #40 jet by sawing a tip cleaner thru the jet... But thats just me.

[Volker_P]

I got them all running!!!

Congratulations!

I don't know what to do as I have more things come up. Should I start a new thread, or just keep this one going?

Stay here so one has the back story present and one can track possible correlations easier.

Does anyone have any advise on how to approach a project like this?

Step by step.
Start with checking charging related contacts and measuring rotor resistance.

[M_Hills]

I will check over my electrical as soon as I buy the multimeter. I am watching craigslist for one in my area.....

[cgswss]

pick up a VOM at Harbor Freight. They are under $10. They give them away free from time to time with a coupon, but I don't have any of the coupons left. I have about half a dozen of them- all for free.

[M_Hills]

My rotor/stator all test good as far as I can tell (my rotor tests right @ 5 ohms and my yellow leads to the stator all test the same around .6ohms). I have tried to test my regulator/rectifier and that thing confuses the living heck out of me!!!! Does anybody know of a video tutorial on how to test the r/r? I cant get a good reading off of the thing..... maybe that is because it is fried..... maybe it is because I don't know how to use my vom.

[Volker_P]

Please have a look what I wrote here.

[M_Hills]

I am still not confident of my testing ability on the r/r. I don't get good reads on the contacts. According to that, I would assume that it is shorted...... What I do not get is how my voltage reads at the battery when the bike is running.... at idol my terminals read 12.something and then as i rev the bike the voltage goes into the 14's..... shouldn't that mean my r/r is working?

Maybe my battery just sucks and won't receive a charge properly...... but then again, if i throw it on the trickle it charges right up.... I dunno.

[cgswss]

Sure sounds like the bike is charging to me. (I get 13.6 volts at 2500 RPM) I would replace the battery. One time I put in a new battery, but used a "normal" charger for it's first charge (instead of going over night with a trickle charge as the directions recommend) That battery was never worth crap and I replaced it again a month later- and suddenly all my problems went away.

[M_Hills]

After I rode my bike for a bit tonight and got everything up to temp, I can't get my voltage above 13... no matter what my rpm. I re-checked my rotor/stator and it all checked out good even whIle hot.. I'm feeling like it has to be my r/r.

[nate85]

once it is hot you will have a lower voltage i would think just like a car alternator. when its cold so to say it will charge higher than when it is hot. my bike at idle is about 12.8 and just over 14 volts when i rev it up around 5000 rpms or so. never tried it hot to see what it was putting out but i will say it will be lower after riding for awhile

[Volker_P]

at idol my terminals read 12.something and then as i rev the bike the voltage goes into the 14's..... shouldn't that mean my r/r is working?

Yes, this ist what a good charging system is supposed to to.

After I rode my bike for a bit tonight and got everything up to temp, I can't get my voltage above 13... no matter what my rpm.

This again sounds like no correct charging.

I re-checked my rotor/stator and it all checked out good even whIle hot.. I'm feeling like it has to be my r/r.

Again: time to check out what I wrote here. Best if you can compare readings between charging properly and not properly.

In some rare cases there are tricky rotor issues that only occur during rotation (preferentially when hot then).

[M_Hills]

My chosen remedy for my problems!!!!
My next thread will be on reassembly and tuning. Should be a fun topic Thanks for all of the help so far guys!!!

[Volker_P]

Looks like the tough solution...

[M_Hills]

There is another way to fix an oil leak!!!??!!!

You should see how I fix a leaky toilet!